From the stadium to the catwalk: the modern evolution of the football scarf

 

Rarely football and fashion have seemed to get along so well as recently. Perhaps, it can be because the sportscore style seems to have definitively taken over the fashion world, metaphorically tackling into the catwalks and breaking the border between these two parallel universes. The latest evidence of the relationship between football and fashion is one of this winter trends: the stadium scarf. Straight from the neck of the football fanatics to the most important headlines from the recent fashion weeks, the journey has not been so short and has culminated to the new objects of the desire of the most avant-garde influencers, become viral on the web, who will not imagine a winter 2018 without the Balenciaga logo scarf. The idea of the football scarf as a fashion item has to do with the concept of practicality and democracy of fashion, one of the principles that have been driving more and more designers in the recent seasons.

The scarf is commonly made of polyester, not the most expensive material but suitable for industrial production. England's hooligans began wearing it on football pitches from the early twentieth century to face rainy and windy afternoons at the stadium and at the same time to show off the social colors of the team they supported. The football scarf has represented since back then a sort of manifesto, a less invasive display, other than the typical jersey, to express each own’s football faith. In addition, bright and vibrant colors were seen as an innovation in Britain's popular fashion of the '10s where dark-colored clothing used to dominate.

The scarves quickly became a key element of the stadium's dresscode: originally made in strips, with alternating team colors, with the badge or with the name of the club written extensively. In games with a high-powered rivalry, they also appeared split in two, with the colors of both challenges. Later, with the development of more modern technologies, symbols of known and representative faces began to be reproduced on them. In the '70s and' 80s, the scarf becomes an integral part and symbol of the culture of the football supporter, becoming part of the most exciting and suggestive choreographies. The most famous to be recalled are those of Liverpool fans at Anfield or those of Borussia Dortmund at Westfalenstadion, just to name a few.

Before coming to the world of fashion, the scarf with social colors passed through the bench or, more specifically, through the necks of many football coaches. The precursor to what would have been the trend was Roberto Mancini, who wore over his Italian tailored suits the white-turquoise Manchester City scarf, knitted in the 50s style when sitting on the Citizens bench. His style caught the attention of many tabloids and English fans, as well. The parterre of coaches who choose to adopt the solution of the hooligan scarf, which, on the one hand, is a political choice, on the other hand, it allows to withstand the hard climatic conditions by even providing a recall to the posh-dandy style, is progressively getting bigger. We saw in our Serie A one of the most faithful to the Mancinian trend: Paulo Sousa, a Portuguese coach in charge of Fiorentina until last season.
We also remember Spalletti, Pioli, Francesco, Pochettino, Ranieri, often seen armed with scarves sitting on their benches.

In the world of fashion, football scarves were brought under the spotlights of the catwalks during the 2016 Russian Fashion Week. The protagonist was Gosha Rubchinskiy, a prominent name for streetwear followers, who set up his collection in collaboration with adidas, football gear themed, ahead of Russia's forthcoming 2018 World Cup. The Russian designer's football scarf was a memorable success both in sales and as an inspiration for other designers. The concept was inspired by the modern football fan, an individual with multiple interests in which he puts the same intense passion that only football faith could give. The hooligan scarf gets its definitive consecration this Fall-Winter when brands like Vetements, Stella Mc Cartney, Comme des Garçons, and Lanvin have included them in their latest collections as a key piece to be worn proudly, even out of the stadium.