Umbro 100: a journey through athletics and aesthetics

The celebration of a century-long legacy in merging sportswear with fashion takes center stage at the ‘Umbro 100: Sportswear X Fashion’ exhibition, marking an influential era for the iconic British brand. From humble beginnings in 1924, Umbro has transcended its role as an athletic apparel manufacturer to become an emblematic figure in the fashion industry. This retrospective pays homage to the journey of Umbro, charting its evolution from a functional sportswear label to a fashion powerhouse renowned for its collaborations with the world's most avant-garde designers. The exhibition, which unfolds in five thematic sections, is curated to encapsulate Umbro’s enduring impact on fashion. It features over 120 pieces that celebrate the brand’s collaborations with industry giants such as Kim Jones, Virgil Abloh, and SUPREME. Showcased at the Westminster Menswear Archive, the exhibition offers an immersive look into how sportswear has been constantly reimagined through fashion's lens.

Not only does the exhibit highlight the seminal moments, such as the transformative 1966 FIFA World Cup victory for England, but it also delves into Umbro's innovative marketing strategies, including the use of high-profile brand ambassadors and its significant role during the replica kit boom. The display sheds light on Umbro's explorations beyond the pitch, including the 'Numero Umbro' offshoot that echoed Milan's Paninaro style and cemented the brand’s cultural clout in the sportswear domain. Significantly, it was Umbro's 2002 collaboration with Paul Smith that set a precedent for the fusion of sports and fashion, a trend that has since become ubiquitous across the industry. This pioneering partnership, which saw the creation of an entire collection for the England national team, redefined the possibilities for sportswear brands and established Umbro as a forerunner in this dynamic field.

As we look back at Umbro's collaborations and cultural touchpoints, from the iconic Italia '90 kit to the Umbro x Paul Smith collection, we are reminded of the brand's unique ability to stay at the forefront of sports fashion. With an array of collaborations that traverse geographical boundaries, the exhibition serves as a testament to Umbro's global influence and its quiet but persistent presence within the football scene. "The most challenging part in the entire process was definitely finding all the different pieces and garments", says the exhibition co-curator Dr. Danielle Sprecher "we are not even sure that this is a complete collection of all the collaborations that Umbro has done over the years. There's just so many. It is hard to keep track of an established and yet subtle brand like Umbro. They're seldom in the news." Professor Andrew Groves, who co-curated the exhibition alongside Dr. Sprecher adds that "it seemed like every week there was a new piece that we were not aware of popping up on eBay".

‘Umbro 100: Sportswear X Fashion’ is more than an exhibition; it's a celebration of a century's worth of innovation, collaboration, and influence. It showcases the power of sportswear in shaping modern fashion and commemorates Umbro’s pivotal role in this transformation. For aficionados of both football and fashion, this exhibition is a window into the rich tapestry of history woven by a brand that has consistently redefined the boundaries between athleticism and aesthetics. It is an unmissable experience for those who appreciate the intricate relationship between the clothes we wear and the sports we love.

The exhibition "Umbro 100: Sportswear X Fashion" can be viewed from April 12 to 26 at Westminster Menswear Archive, Ambika P3, University of Westminster, Marylebone, London, NW1 5LS